These
pages will explain how to service the old VW Beetle/Camper, because they
are roughly the same apart from the size of the vehicle and the engine size. I hope you learn more than a little,
not only about VW's but also the virtues of care and regular servicing. Before
you start your service on your vehicle make sure you have a good owners manual
at hand and have purchased the right
components for your vehicle, from a well known motor factors, because not all
motor factors stock the components you need for the older vehicle.
First Job Make
sure the vehicle is on even ground, start the engine and get the temperature up
to normal running level. Undo the sump plug and let the warm engine oil drain
into a suitable container, if your engine has a metal sludge-trap this has to be
unbolted from the sump and cleaned in solvent. Replace the trap and plug and
pour 4.4 pints of fresh engine oil into the engine (remember new gaskets). The
clutch pedal should have free movement of half an inch, if any more or less it
will have to be adjusted. check the level of the transaxle you will have
to remove the Allen bolt, top up if necessary. Next slacken all the wheel nuts
and jack up the vehicle and
firmly support with axle stands (Never use a Jack on it's own). Check underneath at all the brake pipes
including the flexible hoses for cracks and splits (renew if necessary) also
check shock absorbers for leaks. Front Brakes
By gripping the top and bottom of the front tyres (individually) wiggle the wheel
to see if there is sign of movement if so, check to see if it is the steering
box or the wheel bearing that is causing the problem
don't forget to check the
rear ones as well. Next take off the wheels and if drums are fitted these will
have to be removed, (seen owners manual on how to remove them). They are held
on by two bolts, and the knurled adjuster will have to be slackened off this can
be reached from behind the back plate (centre hole). When the drums are removed
have a good look at the shoes and if they look worn down to the rivets they will
certainly have to be renewed. Remember the stuff that comes out of the drums
when removed is DANGEROUS and should not be inhaled. Check to see if the wheel
cylinders are leaking and not seized, also the drums for scoring. If the
bearings are removed or replaced with new ones remember to re-pack with new
grease, when fitted is complete press the brake pedal twice to centralize the
shoes, adjust by turning the knurled adjuster through the hole in the back plate
(refer to manual for direction) turn until the drum locks, then slacken until it
just turns freely. If disc brakes are fitted to the front then please refer to
your owners manual on removal and re-fitting.
Rear Brakes
The rear brakes are done in the same way as above (refer to owners manual as
these may vary slightly). Sometimes the handbrake cable needs adjusting after
fitting new shoes, this achieved by undoing or doing up the two nuts
underneath.
and
spin off to a show below?
These
pages will explain how to service the old VW Beetle/Camper, because they
are roughly the same apart from the size of the vehicle and the engine size. I hope you learn more than a little,
not only about VW's but also the virtues of care and regular servicing. Before
you start your service on your vehicle make sure you have a good owners manual
at hand and have purchased the right
components for your vehicle, from a well known motor factors, because not all
motor factors stock the components you need for the older vehicle.
Make
sure the vehicle is on even ground, start the engine and get the temperature up
to normal running level. Undo the sump plug and let the warm engine oil drain
into a suitable container, if your engine has a metal sludge-trap this has to be
unbolted from the sump and cleaned in solvent. Replace the trap and plug and
pour 4.4 pints of fresh engine oil into the engine (remember new gaskets). The
clutch pedal should have free movement of half an inch, if any more or less it
will have to be adjusted. check the level of the transaxle you will have
to remove the Allen bolt, top up if necessary. Next slacken all the wheel nuts
and jack up the vehicle and
firmly support with axle stands (Never use a Jack on it's own). Check underneath at all the brake pipes
including the flexible hoses for cracks and splits (renew if necessary) also
check shock absorbers for leaks.
don't forget to check the
rear ones as well. Next take off the wheels and if drums are fitted these will
have to be removed, (seen owners manual on how to remove them). They are held
on by two bolts, and the knurled adjuster will have to be slackened off this can
be reached from behind the back plate (centre hole). When the drums are removed
have a good look at the shoes and if they look worn down to the rivets they will
certainly have to be renewed. Remember the stuff that comes out of the drums
when removed is DANGEROUS and should not be inhaled. Check to see if the wheel
cylinders are leaking and not seized, also the drums for scoring. If the
bearings are removed or replaced with new ones remember to re-pack with new
grease, when fitted is complete press the brake pedal twice to centralize the
shoes, adjust by turning the knurled adjuster through the hole in the back plate
(refer to manual for direction) turn until the drum locks, then slacken until it
just turns freely. If disc brakes are fitted to the front then please refer to
your owners manual on removal and re-fitting. 
